How to Train Your Dog to Live Peacefully with Cats, Chickens, and Small Animals (Without the Chase!)

How to Train Your Dog to Live Peacefully with Cats, Chickens, and Other Prey Animals (Without the Chase!)

Does your dog go crazy when they see cats? Chase chickens around the yard? Get overly excited around small pets? You’re not alone! In this comprehensive dog training episode, we break down exactly how to introduce your dog to cats, chickens, rabbits, and other “prey animals” safely and successfully.

What You’ll Learn in This Episode about Dogs and Cats, Chickens, etc:

The 4-phase introduction method that works for cats, chickens, and small pets

How to assess your dog’s prey drive – Is your dog trainable around other animals?

Essential commands every multi-pet owner needs (including the life-saving “leave it”)

Species-specific training tips for dogs with cats vs. chickens vs. small animals

Common mistakes that make prey drive worse (and how to avoid them)

When to seek professional help and red flags to watch for

Real success stories and realistic timelines for training

Perfect for:

New pet parents adding cats to dog households
Farm owners with chickens and dogs
Multi-pet families struggling with chase behaviors
Dog owners with high prey drive breeds
Anyone considering adding small pets to their home

Featured Training Methods:

Desensitization and counter-conditioning
Environmental management strategies
“Look at That” (LAT) training technique
Impulse control games and exercises
Safe introduction protocols

Breeds mentioned: Border Collies, Terriers, Hounds, Herding dogs, and more

Timeline: Learn the realistic expectations for training dogs around prey animals (hint: it’s not overnight!)

Quick Tips from This Episode:

Never leave dogs unsupervised with prey animals during training
Start with scent introductions before visual contact
Create escape routes for cats and small pets
Use positive reinforcement and balanced training methods

Recommend Training Videos:

E Collar Training Beginner’s Guide: https://youtu.be/BJYHZEkNTnQ?si=l0S_oD2d01pEpzQg

Come Command: https://youtu.be/zGfcvjeiT_o?si=U-qDq_omuHARdrcP

Place Command: https://youtu.be/6MFD2uIYXiU?si=zb1PTxObRbudKIj1

Teach Your Dog Basic Obedience: https://youtu.be/iWQzbEUZBvY?si=umS4WHn7X4WEGbLZ

Recommend Training Equipment:

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Fur Saver Training Collar : https://amzn.to/4dVsGop

Bait Bag : https://amzn.to/44821BJ

Food Rewards : https://amzn.to/4ljQgOn

I Love Dogs Coloring Book : https://amzn.to/4mtScEq

SAFETY WARNING: This episode includes important safety information for multi-pet households. Some dogs may never be safe around certain animals – we cover how to identify these situations.

#DogTraining #MultiPetHousehold #DogAndCat #ChickenTraining #PreyDrive #DogBehavior #PetTraining #DogTrainer #AnimalBehavior #PuppyTraining

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www.caninerevolutiondogtraining.com/contact

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Pack Talk Podcast by Canine Revolution Dog Training

Video versions of our podcasts can be found at the Pack Talk Podcast YouTube channel

https://www.youtube.com/@packtalkpodcast/videos

TRANSCRIPT:

Welcome to Pack Talk Podcast, Episode 139.

Today, we’re talking about how to train your dog to live peacefully with cats, chickens and other prey animals that people like to have in multi-pet homes.

Every week, what happens is we get emails from dog owners that are convinced their pets’ hunting instincts are too strong.

They think that their dog is always going to see cats as prey, chickens as toys to grab onto, and rabbits as things to chase.

But here’s what might shock you.

The secret to successful multi-pet homes is not eliminating prey drive, it’s actually working with it.

So today, we’re going to be talking about this and how you can successfully have a multi-pet home or analyze ways to manage a very high dog, a very high prey drive dog with your other pets.

And we’ve got Chris today, professional dog trainer.

He has a Dutch Shepherd.

All right, so that’s a dog that’s known to have a very high prey drive.

I’ve had Dobermans myself, but both of us have trained.

I can’t even count how many dogs we’ve trained for other people at this point.

A lot of them with high prey drives.

And one of the things about Canine Revolution Dog Training, if you’re going to do a boarding train with us, or if you do private sessions out at our property, you know there’s going to be some prey animals.

Because we got the chickens, we got the guineas, right?

Now there might be some ducks.

We also have some cats.

There’s some rabbits.

There might be rabbits around.

We don’t know.

Definitely.

But bottom line, we have prey animals all over our training grounds.

And so that helps us with the sensitization for dogs, helps us to help that dog learn to control themselves.

So we’re going to deep dive into this, all right?

But first of all, we’ll start off with just the basics of what is prey drive.

And prey drive is a dog’s natural instinct to want to chase and grab things with their mouth.

Now some dogs have like a higher prey drive than other dogs.

You know, some dogs might have like a low level prey drive or they’re kind of interested in chasing things, but they don’t know what to do when they get there.

You know, they like poke them with their nose or maybe nibble on them.

Then you have the dog that’s full on wanting to chase them and destroy whatever that thing is, right?

So if we think about our dog’s background, their ancestry, they came from the wolf, right?

Which we know that wolves, they hunt as a pack, right?

So hunting, that goes along with their prey drive, but the ability to collect their own food, you know, their predators, right?

So they have to actually chase something, whether it’s a deer, like wolves are going to go for bigger things and smaller things.

So it could be a rabbit, could be a chicken, could be a deer, right?

Could be something else, right?

Could be a moose, depending on where they’re at.

But those wolves have to chase that thing, grab it, take it down so that they can actually feed themselves, feed their pack, right?

So that’s kind of where prey drive comes from in dogs.

And as time has gone on and dogs have, you know, became different breeds and different societies that dogs are living in, that prey drive has kind of modified.

But there’s a lot of dogs out there that will surprise you.

You know, you go, you got like a super mutt, and all of a sudden this super mutt has like an intense prey drive.

That’s like serious, you know, it’s wanting to chase kids.

The prey drive is so high.

So something to think about there.

Chris, do you have like if someone’s asking, how do I know if my dog has a high prey drive?

What are some signs that someone could look for in their dog to kind of identify what a prey drive is?

Yeah, I mean, there’s going to be cases where it’s going to be very obvious, right?

Like anything that moves your dog’s on it, right?

Their dog’s wanting to chase things, right?

That could be a butterfly.

I see it with flies, flies in the house, you know, rampage, he’ll be locked on it.

Oh, yeah.

Trying to get it, you know what I’m saying?

So yeah, like just a general desire to chase moving things.

Something’s moving, that could be a prey, an actual prey animal, like a squirrel.

That’s a very common thing.

Like, hey, my dog chases squirrels.

Yeah, who’s doesn’t?

Right, right.

But it could be something, you know, trash bag blowing in the wind.

Your dog’s doing is relaxed, chilling, hanging out, all of a sudden a trash bag blows in the wind.

Boom, their whole demeanor changes.

They’re like, what’s that?

I gotta chase that thing, right?

So, in general, if something’s moving, generally the faster it moves, sometimes you’ll see the more intensity.

That’s gonna be a sign that your dog’s got a stronger prey drive, right?

You can have everywhere in between and some dogs fall on the threshold of like, they just like the chasing part.

And then some dogs lean more towards the putting things in their mouth and biting things, right?

Like some dogs like that.

You’ll see a lot of dogs that just have that chase desire and they’ll never actually kill anything or bite, right?

Or it’s like a nip or something, because you have hurting dogs that will nip and stuff like that.

So you got a bunch of different things.

But yeah, like biting things can be a sign that your dog has some prey drive.

Particularly, we’re not talking about like aggression here, like your dog’s getting aggressive with things, right?

This is just generally a moving object.

My dog wants to grab it.

You know what I mean?

That’s a general sign that your dog’s got some prey drive going on.

I think there’s a big difference and this might confuse people, but dogs that are being reactive or aggressive versus a dog that’s just in prey drive, right?

Because a lot of times, you can get a dog that’s just in prey drive that will actually bite people, but it’s not like biting them because it’s reactive toward them or it’s not biting them because it’s feeling like it needs to be aggressive, right?

It’s just biting them because their prey drive gets kicked on and then it just reacts, right?

Because it hasn’t learned how to not respond to that or how to not harness the prey drive properly.

Now, if you do have an aggressive dog, right?

And that dog’s got a high prey drive, the two can mix up into a different…

That can accentuate the aggression, right?

For sure, for sure.

Because what that dog’s learning as time goes on is what it’s going to keep doing.

What it’s practicing is what it’s going to keep doing.

So, prey drive, like let’s say we have one dog, let’s just say it’s a super mutt.

It has prey drive, right?

It’s wanting to chase things.

It’s wanting to grab on to some things.

But, it’s also a little bit insecure or it’s nervous.

It doesn’t like certain situations with people.

It’s learning that in those situations.

If it reacts to that person, it gets it out of that situation.

So, now you have the potential for the intermingling of prey drive and the learned behavior, right?

That could result in big problems, right?

Injuries to people, injuries to yourself, injuries to your other animals that we’re talking about today, the prey animals, animals that could be considered prey animals, like cats, chickens, rabbits, you know, whatever people have for pets, you know, these kind of things.

So, be careful of that.

Watch out for that.

And if you have a dog with prey drive, once you assess that your dog has prey drive, your number one goal, which we’ll talk about today, is going to be starting to implement training with that dog so that you can teach that dog how to control its prey drive, have impulse control, but we also want healthy outlets for prey drive as well.

We don’t just want it bottled up all the time, right?

Yeah.

So, with that being said, if you have a dog, it’s got prey drive, you’re listening, you’re hearing what we’re saying, and this is a struggle for you or a potentially dangerous situation, because there are dogs that this happens, they have prey drive, boom, they get a hold of a cat, now they kill the cat.

As tragic as that is, that’s a repetition.

So now what happens, that prey drive becomes stronger.

The desire and the want to grab on to the next cat and kill it becomes stronger, right?

So you got to be really careful.

So if you’ve been trying to work on this and you haven’t been able to resolve it, that’s when you might need to seek some professional help, which we’re more than happy to help you ourselves, but you might need some professional help if this is something that’s been ongoing, that you’re trying to resolve, right?

So let’s just talk about some foundational style training prerequisites, like long-term, if we want to train our dog to live peacefully with our other animals, like cats, chickens, whatever else we have.

What are the other animals that people have, like hamsters, rabbits, chinchillas, Ben had a chinchilla.

Parrots.

Oh yeah.

That thing starts flying around the house.

That dog starts chasing.

And it’s talking.

It’s talking shit.

I’ve known some parakeets that curse.

Curse like sailors.

Yeah.

You know Vinny.

Vinny the gutter guy.

He had one.

Does he really?

Yeah.

He’ll cuss you out.

Well, those birds live a long time too.

Yeah.

They also say they’re just repeating what they hear from their owner.

So, you know.

Yeah, yeah.

What about turtles?

Is turtles something?

Turtles?

I don’t know.

I would say that’s probably low on the prey threshold because they ain’t moving too fast, you know what I’m saying?

But definitely.

Well, they can move kind of fast, dude.

Let me tell you.

Yeah.

I was walking the nature trail one day and there was a turtle.

I was like, oh, look at the turtle.

I was going to like go like get closer to him.

Boom, he took off.

I was like, holy shit.

Some of them are, you know, lean and mean.

So, yeah, it definitely could be a thing.

Or if you have like goldfish, you know, like just think about that.

You got fish in a tank.

Like an aquarium.

And that dog’s spray drive triggers.

Boom, dog jumps up.

Boom, tank busts.

Now the fish are dying.

Yeah.

That’s not good.

Yeah.

I’d like to see how rampage you respond to that.

I’ve not thought about fish.

Take him to the aquarium.

All right.

So let’s talk about some training prerequisites to help you get to where your dog can live peacefully with your other animals.

And we do have YouTube videos for all the stuff we’re going to talk about that show you how we teach this, so we’ve got some links down in the description below to where you can find some of those videos out, but just check out the YouTube if you want to see us doing it.

But the first thing is going to be verbal markers, right?

We want nice, easy, simple communication with our dog.

Two words for you.

One’s going to be the word good, which means that your dog’s doing the right thing.

Keep doing that.

The other one’s going to be the word no, which you would teach your dog that when you say no, that means they’re doing something wrong to stop doing that.

We’re not going to go into detail on how to teach all these things because we’ve done other podcasts on it and we have the YouTube videos, but I just want to help you understand you do need good communication in order to communicate with your dog.

Well, the other thing, too, is you have to teach this to your dog.

You can’t just say good and think that your dog just knows that they’re doing it.

You have to teach them to understand that word, and you have to teach them to understand the word no, too.

It’s not like an inborn thing.

We know it, so they know it.

All right, we got that done.

Next step, right?

I think that’s the biggest thing is like a lot of this is, dude, I harp on this so much.

The foundation is, if you have no foundation, stop worrying about the big problem.

Hey, the big problem is the prey drive or whatever.

If we don’t have the fundamentals, don’t worry about the, we got to manage that.

This is what you need to be focused on.

It’s not a willy nilly, let’s spend a couple of days charging some markers and then, all right, did that, move on to the next thing.

No, no, this takes time, you know what I mean?

Exactly.

So, you’re going to want to teach your verbal markers, you’re also going to want some essential obedience commands.

I would recommend at a minimum having a heel command or a heel behavior, a come command big time, because if your dog decides to start chasing something, you’ve got to be able to call it back.

Yeah, I think that’s the most important.

You want a good down behavior, you want a good stay behavior, this is part of your impulse control work.

You want a good, I would say for prey drive, we’re going to want an out, where if I say out, let go of something, you let go of it.

That way, while we’re working on this, if you do put your mouth on something, I can say out, and you’ll let go of it, right?

So that would be what I consider to be our essential obedience commands.

Anything you would add on to that?

I mean, if you break it down even further, honestly, just like I think, a recall and a stay, whatever that looks like, if you have a solid recall and a solid stay, you can really address a prey drive issue, right?

All the other stuff, I like it as well.

I want to heal.

I want to specifically have a down stay versus a sit stay in a lot of cases, just because it’s like my dog’s got to make more steps to deviate from that.

Right.

But really at the end of the day, like that recall, and I mean, that stuff you can day one get in a puppy or get in a dog, you can start to build these behaviors.

But that recall is super, super important.

The stay, super, super important because I think of the trouble that, and we’ve had many, many clients that have lost dogs because of prey drive issues.

Running into the road, chasing things, it’s like, gotta have that recall, gotta have that stay.

The recall is like your safety net for the stay, right?

Right.

So super important.

You’re going to want some impulse control exercises.

Those are going to be your stay and your place.

A place is basically a downstay just on a designated area.

You are going to want remote collar conditioning.

You’re going to want that done for sure.

Before you ever take your dog off a leash, you want remote collar conditioning done.

We do have a full video on that on YouTube.

Come command like Chris said, we do want a desired or beneficial outlet for prey drive.

Yeah.

That could be playing fetch with a ball, that could be playing tug, that could be like people throwing the frisbees.

You know what other ideas you got for outlets of prey drive?

I mean, yeah, any of that stuff could, maybe you get into bite work, maybe you want to do some protection sports or something like that.

Like all that’s an outlet for those genetic behaviors.

I got a friend that does the lure chasing with her dog.

Yeah.

Right.

Yes.

You could have your dog, and she does competitions, so you could have your dog do lure chasing.

Right?

All good outlets for prey drive.

Then you want to be able to cap your dog, which means if they’re in prey drive, you stop them.

They can hold on, they can keep that prey drive going in their system, but they’re able to stop, hold themselves, have impulse control, and then wait for a command to release them back into prey drive.

You want to be able to cap prey drive that way if they are mid-chase.

Let’s say your dog decides to chase a squirrel across the street, boom, you tell them something, they can stop the prey drive, they can execute whatever you’re supposed to be doing.

So all this is going to be very beneficial, right?

All this is really going to help you truly be able to live peacefully with your cat, with your chicken, with, you know, some people have iguanas, too, in the house, and then think about that.

Iguanas, it could be a prey animal.

When I was on vacation, I was actually on my honeymoon.

Cancun, iguanas everywhere.

Oh yeah.

You know, Cancun, Mexico.

Cartels are down there, right?

They eat them, they eat the iguanas.

It’s in Puerto Rico, same thing.

So there’s fricking iguanas, and this one, I was in the lazy river at the resort.

This one iguana dude runs, next to the-

They’ll get after it.

Boom, jumps up, boom, grabs this big old flower, rips it off the bush, eats it.

The iguana’s got some prey drive.

Oh yeah.

But the flower’s not afraid, you know, it’s just sitting there.

It is that day, it was.

It was blowing in the wind, you know, it’s moving around.

All right, so you’re going to want all that to truly work on your prey drive.

And then you’re also going to want some environmental management.

Chris already mentioned this a little bit.

But while you’re working on your prey drive, before you have 100 percent trust in your dog living with your other animals, you are going to want to have safe places for all the animals.

You’re going to want to have good management in the house.

So this might be for your dog using a kennel or a crate, right?

To kind of manage them or maintain them while you’re working on the prey drive.

Could be an X-Pen for a dog, leash on in the house, these types of things.

For a cat, if you have a cat, you might want some physical barriers in place so your cat just can’t be waltzing into where your dog is because you know how cats are.

Chris has a cat, I have cats, Ben has cats.

So we all know how cats are, right?

They got their mind of their own.

You know what I’m saying?

They’re doing their thing.

Exactly.

So we want to have safe places for the cats.

So for me, I don’t know how you guys have your cats set up, but I have a cat tree for my cats, big cat tree.

They can go way up vertically because that’s what cats do.

And they can post themselves like a pirate ship.

It’s like way up there.

They can post themselves on the top of the cat tree, kind of get out of the way of the other animals or things.

The cats also like hidey holes.

So my cats, they’ll find a hidey hole, right?

But if you’re working on this prey drive, you could set up little hidey holes for your cats.

You could set up a cat tree for your cat to get vertical away from the other animals.

Now, if you’re not managing your dog properly, your dog could just take down that cat tree depending on your setup.

You know what I’m saying?

So be careful.

If you have chickens, chickens are very popular these days, right?

Cause everyone-

As they should be.

They should be.

Back in the day, I think it was World War I or World War II.

The government was saying everybody needs at least like three chickens, I think it was.

Yeah.

There was like an old news article going around about like pushing that.

Right.

Get your own eggs.

Take care of your own chickens, right?

Every neighborhood, everyone had three chickens per household or something like that.

We need to get back to those days.

Yeah.

Cause then like 20 years later, they’re like, eggs are bad for you.

Right.

So chickens, you know, obviously a chicken coop, you definitely want that depending on your setup.

Some people have chicken runs or your chickens are like within a gated run area where predators can’t get to them.

A predator could also be your dog that’s not trained to live peacefully with your chickens.

If you’re free ranging your chickens, right?

You’re not just going to let your dog out there until you’ve actually worked on this and have the prey drive under control.

Right.

So we’ll talk more about how we’re actually going to do that.

But just keep in mind, management structure while you’re working on this is very important.

It’s going to be a way to manage the stress that both your dog and your prey animal, like your cat or your chicken or whatever you have, because it is going to be a little bit stressful as you start to get them to intermingle and work together and interact and things like that, which is natural.

Stress is a natural thing.

You shouldn’t shy away from it.

You do want to manage it.

You don’t want someone to get overly stressed.

So your management and structure are going to be very important to help you get there.

Any other thoughts on management structure?

I think you have to have that conversation, whether that’s with your family or with yourself, as to what does this look like for us?

Because I’ve met many people that are like, okay, my dog has killed a chicken.

You know what I mean?

Right.

We go through a lot of this information like, well, I realistically am working 8, 12 hours a day.

I’m not doing eye contact drills.

I’m not dry of cap and I’m not going to do any of this stuff.

So now we’re talking management.

So you’re going to be more in a management camp versus like, can I truly resolve this thing?

So now you’re probably need to be looking at options of like, I’m going to have my chickens in a chicken run or my dog gets access to a fenced in yard and he doesn’t have access to the chickens.

Right.

And there’s other things you can do.

You get involved with us, we’ll help you teach communication so that you have a bare minimum ability to communicate with your dog in that moment.

Right.

But maybe you’re on the side where you’re like, hey, I really want to resolve this to where I can free range my chickens, let my dog be free out in the yard and we don’t have issues.

Right.

So that’s a conversation you’ve got to have and understand.

And what dog do you have?

Do you have that crazy high drive dog or a little bit of prey drive?

Right.

So all these things are factors that are going to factor into your game plan here.

Right.

You also got to be careful because I knew two people, they were neighbors.

One person had chickens in a chicken run set up where they had the coop in the run.

They never came out of the run.

Right.

The other neighbor had wiener dogs with a fenced-in yard.

Well, one day the chickens were doing chicken things, making noises in their run.

And the neighbor’s wiener dogs dug under their fence because they’re wiener dogs.

They were bred to kill badgers and hunt badgers, right?

So they dug under the fence, they ran over to the chicken run, they dug under that, and they just snapped the necks of all the chickens.

They didn’t eat them, they just, the prey drive took over, they snapped the neck, right?

So that can happen too.

So even if you have management in place, but you don’t really address your dog’s prey drive, like on a real level, there’s always things that can happen.

Well, that’s the risk of management, right?

That’s what you’re managing it.

It’s not solving the problem, right?

So like, yeah, that risk is always there for sure.

And you have to be aware of that.

Well, you’ve seen those videos of like the Belgian Malinois that just hop over like an eight foot fence.

Yeah, yeah.

Yeah, I saw one recently.

It was like a doggy daycare.

They like literally unleashed the Malinois into before they could close the gate behind the dog, it had cleared the eight foot fence and it was out running around.

It’s like, yeah, so management, it didn’t work there.

Right, right.

It is not a good management strategy.

I’ve known some, like the hardest case I’ve ever trained for a dog, it was a fence climber, it was a golden retriever.

So it doesn’t have to be, don’t think that.

Well, yeah, once they get that little taste.

It was like a big one too, like a big, like thick golden retriever.

If you saw a fence, his number one goal was to climb over it.

So likely like you were talking about earlier, that reinforcement history is a big thing, right?

So at some point, this dog has made its way over the fence and enjoyed itself, had some, whether it was just the adventure, or he got to chase some stuff, or he killed something, or what?

It’s like, now I can climb a fence, and now we got a problem.

All right.

So let’s talk about the actual introduction process that we would recommend.

Again, this is gonna be, you know, dependent on your specific setup.

These are just some generalities.

But at first, when we’re introducing a dog and a prey animal or a prey animal to a predator, like a dog, first, we’re just gonna want to introduce to be a scent and sound, right?

We don’t want actual interactions at first.

So some of the things that happen could be, you have some bedding items from your prey animal.

Don’t give those to your dog.

Don’t take your cat’s blanket and just give it to your dog, then your dog will rip it up, right?

We don’t want that.

Just have it around so your dog gets used to the smell of that cat via the blanket or whatever other item you have, right?

Same thing with chickens, right?

You can get some chicken feathers or something, bring them in, bring them around your dog, but don’t give them to your dog, right?

So scent and sound, for the sound thing, you know, cats make noises or cats like playing with like bells and stuff, so you get them used to those kind of sounds.

Chickens make chicken noises, right?

So you can expose them to the sound as well.

Scratching post, you know?

Exactly.

That one, that rampage loses it.

He’ll be straight dead asleep if he hears that scratching noise, he’s perking up.

Right, right.

So like that was definitely a thing.

Yeah, so you want to desensitize those sounds, you want to make it not a big deal, make it something that’s normal, that’s routine, right?

The next thing we would do would be visual contact at a distance, which is going to be your threshold or your distance to distraction.

So you can have physical barriers up, you can have your dog in a crate, you can have your leash, right?

All these different options, but you want to have some ability for your dog to observe the prey animal without losing it and going into prey drive.

So for this, you would be using some of the training that you’ve already done, your downstay, your come command, your healing, your eye contact, your good and no verbal communication, right?

So when you’re introducing your dog visually, right?

This is when you’re more likely going to trigger prey drive.

So threshold, distance to the distraction is going to be very important while you use the training you’ve already done to your advantage, right?

You got anything to add to that or some specifics on how to do that?

Well, I think going back to the drive capping, we kind of breeze through that, but I think that’s a super important thing there, being able to cap your dog’s drive.

Like a good example of this is like, if you’ve ever seen sport dogs or like in protection sports, when they send a dog on a decoy, he’s about to go and bite that decoy and they say down, boom, dog goes into the down, right?

Like that’s a good example of capping the drive.

Right.

So it’s like, that’s a good thing to have before I get to this step.

If you can, and that’s hard, that’s hard to do.

Like that doesn’t come in a couple of days.

Especially if you have a high pre-drive.

Yeah.

I mean, my dog’s a year and a half and like these are, and I don’t do it enough, honestly, right?

But it’s not like he’s a year and a half, and I’ve had him since eight weeks and he’s not perfect.

You know what I’m saying?

I can still see that he’s in struggle, but I can recall him, like I could, as one drill we do, I could throw a ball mid chase of the ball, I could recall him away, right?

So that’s a good idea, a good example of capping that drive, right?

And put it in and into something.

So that’s like, especially if you have a problem, my dog has killed chickens, my dog has killed, I’m not saying I’m Einhas, but I’m just saying like, if you are in that boat of like, my dog has actually killed a prey animal, you got to make this a serious priority to be able to cap that drive before you get to this step, you know what I mean?

And I mean, there’s always circumstances, like I mean, I’ve done scenarios where I’ve done those types of drills where I’ve taught my dog how to have impulse control.

And then recently we went to a local park where they have like a tennis court.

This is something we’ve never experienced before.

And this dude had one of those machines, right?

It’s just boom, launching the ball, and he’s whacking it.

So it’s going one way, quickly going the other way.

And I mean, it’s like back to back, he’s launching these things.

It gets crazy.

It was too much for Rampage.

It’s like, we’ve never encountered this level of whatever, this situation before, and we were very close to the thing.

I’m like, even through my communication, through my training protocols, it was too much for him to handle.

It’s like, all right, you have to also be able to make those calls and make it like, maybe I’m doing some cat sessions, but then all of a sudden I get chickens, and you think, just because we’ve done these cat sessions, it’s going to apply to the chickens, and my prey drive is good to go, right?

So like, if they’ve never experienced it before, don’t just think you can correct them out of it.

There can be a situation where it’s like, the prey drive is overpowering your training, and that means that we need to bolster up that training side a little bit for that particular context.

Yeah, it’s been a long time for me since I’ve really had to work on it with my dogs, because for me, just so you know, I have two Dobermans.

I had two Dobermans.

One passed away recently.

I had three dogs, right?

One was a mutt, and she actually had a prey drive.

She would go after some stuff.

Then I had one of my Dobermans pass away who had a stronger prey drive.

My Doberman that’s still living, he still has prey drive, but it’s like a lower than my other Doberman was.

But I did a lot of that too whenever I was back working on it hardcore.

Yeah.

One of the big exercises for me was like ball and a tug.

Ball and a ball and a string.

We’d be doing something.

I would throw the item right away.

They would have to maintain a command like a heel.

I think there’s videos of me doing these sessions on YouTube, on our YouTube channel, but they would be doing a heel.

I would release them to go for the item, but before they got to it, I would call them back.

Right.

So, all these kind of impulse control, prey drive capping exercises, then eventually, they would get the item.

And the thing you got to be careful about, too, is you don’t want to hold back the item too much.

Right.

Like it’s a balancing act.

Yeah.

And this is where some professional guidance or professional help might come in, but it’s a balancing act, right?

There is, like, you want to be able to cap their drive, have them come back, have them be able to hold off on using their prey drive, but you don’t want to kill the prey drive.

Yeah.

So sometimes you let them have the reward and the ratio of, like, holding them back from the prey, whether it’s a ball or a tug or a toy, and then letting them have it, that ratio is going to change every single day, every single session to keep their motivation, to keep their levels good to go, right?

So and then whenever you’re around the animals, you don’t want them getting to that.

Yeah.

Right.

So having that prey drive outlet to where your toy sessions, they get that, they get to satisfy their prey drive.

And then around the animals, they don’t get to chase things or go after things.

All that’s a balancing act, right?

So you got to figure out your specific case, like Rampage, your dog has a very, like extreme high prey drive, right?

So that’s a little bit different, like, cause if you’re going to the park, they got tennis courts and he’s losing his bonkers.

You know, that’s a whole different level.

For sure.

So all things you have to consider, you listening, right?

You have to consider with your dog in particular, right?

But going back to our introduction process, we get the scent and sound.

That’s how we start.

Then we go to visual contact at a distance and then slowly decreasing that distance, slowly increasing the distance.

Going to be reading that dog’s body language.

So you do want to understand how to read dog’s body language, which we just put a video out on our YouTube channel about dog body language, about how to read it properly, right?

The generalities.

So you’ll definitely want to check that out.

So you understand what the tail means, what the head means, what this means, what that means, right?

If your dog is staring at your cat, that could be a prey drive stare.

That could be a hyper focus, but it might not be.

How do you know?

You got to know your dog’s body language, right?

Because if your dog starts staring at your cat and it’s in prey drive, that could not go very well for you, for your cat, for your dog.

Because cats will fight too.

That dog gets up to that cat, holy shit, tear up that dog’s face.

So all things you want to be aware of, knowing the body language, reading the body language, right?

The next thing you would want to do would be controlling interactions.

And there might be some dogs you decide, hey, we’re not doing interactions, depending on your dog.

They’re good with the scent and the sound.

They’re good with the visual contact, but I’m not going to go that interaction route.

That’s going to depend on you and your particular dog, right?

But if you’re going to do interactions, you want them controlled.

So supervised interactions, your dog on a leash, right?

To start off with.

Obviously, remote collar is in place in hand probably, till you build up your trust, right?

For sure.

Short positive sessions.

If your dog, let’s say you have your cat, it’s in the house, you have your dog, they’re in the living room, they’re hanging out.

Your dog’s on a leash, your dog goes over to your cat, sniffs it, doesn’t do anything, prey drive related, good.

Now you can reward your dog, right?

Because you’re building up that positive association to the cat.

Now, depending on the cat, you might have to do the same thing with the cat.

Because there are cats that they see a dog, they’ve had a history with dogs, and they’ll just freaking go crazy at that dog.

So you could put the cat on a leash, which means you got to do leash training with your cat, and cats are mammals just like dogs, right?

Like when I got my cats, I’ve had three cats, total one passed away unfortunately, so I have two left.

But my cats, they all started out on a leash, right?

With my dogs, with my animals, with everything, and then they slowly got off the leash, and now my cats are indoor, outdoor cats, where they are outside and they’re inside, depending on what they want, because they’re cats, it depends on what they want to do.

But I trust the cats, I trust the dogs, I trust all the animals, right?

Because we built that up.

So, supervised meetings, supervised positive sessions, rewards for calm behavior, for both your dog and your cat, right?

Because if you have a cat, like, let’s say your dog is not the problem, your cat is.

Now you gotta reverse the script, you gotta focus on training your cat to be cool with your dog, right?

Yeah, there’s many cases where, like, we’ve worked with this with clients, like, let’s say we train the dog, the dog can hold a place command, you know what I’m saying?

It has the downstay and the dog’s good to go, but now that cat is kind of entroaching on the dog’s base, messing with them, kind of like running by the dog and stuff like that.

It’s like there does come a point in time, it’s like the tennis ball scenario, right?

It’s like there can be certain circumstances where it’s too overpowering for the dog.

It’s like we gotta switch some focus here on the cat as well, like the cat’s gotta get a little bit of management or some training here as well.

Yeah, cats, I’ve also seen cats to where they have such a bad association to being attacked by the dog that they have a conditioned response to when the dog’s around, attack the dog before it can attack them.

So we train the dog, the dog’s fine now.

Now the cat still has that association.

So I use a leash, I use rewards for the cat, and then you can’t correct a cat like you can a dog.

You can do a little leash tug on them, but you can’t really use an e-collar on them.

I mean, you probably could, but I haven’t really delved into that world, so what I generally do for the cats is I have, because cats, they’ll swat, right?

They’ll swat something to kind of correct something.

So I try to mimic that swat, I just have a very small, narrow, pokey thing, like you know how teachers have those pointers that they use in classrooms?

You could use one of those, and if the cat tries to go after a dog, you could poke it, like it’s being swatted, and you have to do that repetitiously.

You don’t want to poke it and crush it, right?

It’s just enough of a poke to get it to stop its behavior, then you reward it for being calm.

That’s worked really well for me, for the cats at least, and then for the dogs, I’m doing my normal corrections if they need them, like leash correction, remote collar correction.

If the dog is getting out of control, if the dog’s trying to chase something, being overbearing on something, right?

Or if the dog’s trying to like, this happens sometimes with my dog, dog tries to play with the cat.

The cat doesn’t want to play, but the dog doesn’t understand that, so I have to tell the dog to come back.

If they don’t come back, no, correction, right?

Then the dog comes back, good, reward.

So all of this is part of your controlled interaction point that you need to work on.

And again, there’s more detail you could go in here.

If you guys want our help, just let us know, but that’s generally how we’re gonna handle that.

And then once you do all that, once you do the first part, which is sent and sound, the second part, which is visual contact, head to distance, working on your thresholds, the third part, which is gonna be your controlled interactions, now the fourth part, once you get through all that, is gonna be freedom and monitoring, where you’re letting your animals have generally, gradually, unsupervised time together, and you make sure that they can maintain all of their behaviors and maintain their peacefulness with each other.

If you have a dog that you’re not there, don’t go there.

Don’t assume that everything is good to go.

You have to go through enough repetitions to make sure your dog is comfortable, to make sure your cat is comfortable.

Chickens too, because chickens will get scared.

Like a dog, a chicken will get scared.

So the chicken will run away and then it’s lost.

It goes somewhere it hasn’t been, like if you’re a free ranger.

So that could work against you.

So you got to be really careful.

But gradual unsupervised time, but you also have to maintain your training consistency.

So let’s say you don’t do any training.

You’re like everything’s good to go.

Two months go by.

Now your dog starts to relapse into some prey drive issues again.

That’s because you didn’t work on maintaining your training.

A dog is a living, breathing being.

You have to maintain training with your dog.

So if you get lazy or you just think that you don’t need to do that, you do have to do repetitious sessions every once in a while just to maintain what you’ve built up.

A lot of it that I see is people will get intense on those drive capping scenarios and exercise, and then you stop doing that and think, the dog’s now no longer getting the outlet, especially when you have these higher prey drive dogs, they get no outlet, and then we’ve lax on our training.

They’re gonna find the outlet.

The energy’s there.

The energy’s gotta go somewhere, you know what I mean?

Exactly.

Yeah, so kind of going off of that, trying to think of some specific considerations for dogs and cats.

We talked about a bunch already, but cats have their own body language, dogs have their own body language.

They don’t necessarily know each other’s body language.

If you put two cats together, they can communicate very easily, because they’re cats.

They know how cats communicate just instinctually.

You have two dogs together.

Generally, they’re gonna be able to communicate relatively well.

Some dogs just ignore signals.

If they’re too far gone from the dog.

People do that, too, right?

People do it, yeah.

But anyway, you get two species that aren’t familiar with each other like a human and a dog, right?

Humans think that dogs can understand what humans are saying.

That’s not the case, right?

So you have to learn how your dog communicates.

Your dog has to learn how you communicate.

Same thing with dogs and cats.

So like I already said, cats like vertical spaces, and they like hidey holes.

So I would have those available for your cats.

You want to make sure your cat’s being respectful as well as your dog, right?

So if your dog is, let’s say you know some cat body language and your dog’s approaching the cat and you can tell the cat’s uncomfortable, teach your dog not to approach that uncomfortable cat.

I would just call the dog back to you, right?

Call the dog back, the dog can turn around, come back to you, leave the cat alone, give it its space, right?

Same thing for a cat.

You know how cats like to rub on things?

Let’s say your dog’s like you said earlier, you’re on a place, just lay in there, right?

Minding its own business and the cat jumps up on there and starts rubbing on the dog, when you can tell the dog’s uncomfortable, that’s when we’re teaching the cat to give the dog space.

Yeah.

Right?

So we gotta do both with the cat and the dog.

And uncomfortable can be, like I would say not just, like uncomfortable could be, let’s say the dog’s fearful or insecure or like weird about it, but it could also be like in my case, rampage not insecure about it.

Right?

If Walker walks up to him, he’s getting that like into that prey drive, right?

So like that can be a piece of it, where it’s like, ah, dude, the cat’s getting into that threshold where I need to manage the cat because the rampage is doing what he’s supposed to.

He’s in his space.

He’s holding the place command.

He’s doing his thing, right?

There’s other things I can do.

Like I can help correct the mindset and stuff like that, of course, but it’s not just uncomfortable.

It could be like, is the cat triggering the prey drive?

You know what I mean?

True, yeah.

Chickens and chickens and dogs or other birds and dogs.

Like one thing you gotta think about, we didn’t already talk about, is you know how chickens do like different behaviors.

Like first of all, chickens are just like, they’re hilarious.

You just watch chickens.

Yeah.

They’re walking around, they’re doing crazy ass chicken things.

But one of the things that chickens do that can cause prey drive to spike is like when they flap their wings.

Yeah.

You know how roosters will like flap their wings before they crow or like hens, they’re like stretching their wings out, they’re flapping them a little bit.

Or when they’re shaking the dirt off of the dust bath.

Yeah, they’re in the dust bath.

Or they start running out of nowhere, chicken run, or they chicken run with the wing.

All these are like sudden movement second, boom, trigger a prey drive.

So you want to make sure when you’re doing your sessions with your dog, especially as you’re doing your visual contact at a distance phase, you want to make sure that you’re getting your dog exposure to those types of behaviors.

You don’t just want chickens that are just sitting there.

You want chickens that are moving around, flapping their wings, doing chicken things, being chickens.

Also, chickens when they’re going to lay eggs, they start getting loud.

They’re letting everybody know, I laid an egg or I’m about to lay an egg.

Then the choir will come in and everybody’s going off.

Or if there’s a chicken that likes a certain nesting box, and there’s a chicken in there laying an egg, but that chicken that loves that nesting box is like pissed.

They start getting noisy and loud.

For a rampage, it’s mating.

When the rooster chases down the lady and jumps on top, he gets amped up about that.

You want to have exposure to all of this for your dogs.

If you have other birds like parrots or whatever, think about what they’re doing.

Think about the different movements.

You want your dog exposed to all of that before you even go into controlled interactions or freedom and monitoring.

You definitely don’t want to give your dog unsupervised freedom if you haven’t gone through all those scenarios with enough repetition to understand how your dog is going to react and make sure you teach your dog how to respond to those scenarios.

Yeah.

Right.

For other mammals, Ben had a chinchilla growing up.

That thing would jump really quick, run really quick.

It would dust bath.

I had hamsters, these kind of things, so they’re all similar in the thought process that you want to make sure your dog is exposed to the different ways these animals move.

Also, people with hamsters, they get the hamster balls.

They put the hamster in the ball, they close it, now the hamster is running around the house.

That would definitely be a problem for me.

I’ve not tried that.

But what I’m saying is you want to expose your dog to all the different varieties of how your prey animal moves.

You don’t just want to assume that because your dog is okay with your hamster and it’s hamster cage sleeping, that it’s okay with your hamster running the hamster wheel.

You know what I’m saying?

I have differences.

I have relatively no issues now with chickens and rampage, but guineas.

My guineas and my chickens live together.

They coop up together.

But guineas move faster.

They move fast.

Especially like mating season, they’re running, chasing each other all day, flying up in the tree, coming down.

They’re moving fast.

That is still a struggle point.

Just the difference between the chicken and a guinea, chickens, we pretty much solved that problem.

Guineas, especially during mating season, I gotta be ready for it.

Oh yeah, good to go.

All right, so let’s talk real quick about some troubleshooting if you have common problems.

Let’s say something’s going wrong.

Never be afraid to backstep your training.

Let’s say you were up to working on giving your dog some freedom around your cat or around your chicken.

There’s an incident, maybe your dog decides to chase the cat, the cat gets into a tidy hole and you can tell, like, oh, you know, that dog went into prey drive.

Take a step back.

Go back to having the leash on.

Go back to using some management techniques while you decide to, how you’re gonna address that and work on that, right?

Maybe your dog needs more supervision.

If they start chasing, no, correction on the remote collar.

Your dog stops, good, reward.

That’s helping you go in the right direction, right?

So never be afraid to step back in your training.

And even if you’re not working on chickens, cats, other prey animals, let’s just say you’re working on obedience.

It’s totally fine to backtrack your training a little bit, take a couple steps back in your progression, focus on some earlier steps, and then go back to where you were at, right?

That’s totally normal, totally fine.

If you see that your prey animal, like a cat or a chicken or a hamster or a chinchilla, whatever it is, is getting stressed out, maybe you need to slow down your sessions, right?

Your dog might not be getting stressed out, but maybe your prey animal is, slow down your sessions, right?

Now be careful when you’re doing this training exercise with your cats and your chickens and other animals, they might start being desensitized to predators, right?

So you gotta keep that in mind.

Oh yeah.

Because if you free range your chickens and then like they’re totally cool with dogs, now Fox shows up.

They’re like, oh look, the dog.

Fox grabs them, it’s like, what the hell?

Yeah, yeah, for sure.

That can definitely be a factor, but I don’t know if you’re gonna be able to eliminate that.

If you do want your dog good to go with your chickens and your chicken’s good to go with your dog, you gotta be careful too, because we didn’t talk about this, but some chickens do though, just like the cats, they might get after the dog.

Oh, for sure.

Yeah, like some roosters, dude.

Or some big mama hens.

Oh yeah, especially their broody or whatever.

I mean, my dogs like to sneak in the coop from time to time, grabbing some little snacks, little egg snacks.

Yeah, I got one laying right now.

Your kids do that too, right?

She’ll peck them.

Oh yeah, my kids definitely.

Well, one of them needs a problem, my two-year-old.

So just keep in mind about that, right?

I mean, if you have a chicken, like let’s just take a quick pause here.

If you have a rooster that’s attacking your dog, that could be a problem, right?

So how do you work on that, which I’ve done myself.

Again, I have like that pokey thing, like I have for the cats.

And so you know how chickens, if they’re correcting other chickens, they peck.

So in my thought process, I’m like, let me mimic that movement with that peck, right?

So if I have a rooster that’s bucking up at a dog or a kid or something, I have that pokey thing and I do a mimic peck to that chicken.

Now what chickens do, if you observe chickens, if you’ve been around chickens, not to go off on a chicken tangent, but they’ll get serious.

They’ll start pecking, pecking, pecking until the other one submits.

That’s how chickens operate.

That can go on for hours if they’re not submitting.

They’ll start fighting.

I’ve literally pulled chickens apart.

They’re all bloody.

I’m holding them.

I’m like, you guys need a break, right?

But I try to mimic that so if the rooster or the chicken pecks the dog and the dog’s totally fine, normal, not doing anything, I’ll peck that chicken with the pointer.

I’ve even used my index finger before, peck.

If that chicken tries to peck the dog again, peck the chicken again.

Repeat until that chicken submits.

It does work.

It’s crazy.

It does work though.

There are alternatives as well if you don’t.

If you don’t…

Chris, harvest the chicken.

Chris, if there’s a chicken…

Hey, chicken tenders, baby.

We use the animal and that’s why I got the chickens.

We got some meat birds.

We got some egg layers.

So it depends on what side of the equation you’re on.

That’s another option.

That’s another option, for sure.

Some advanced techniques that can help you.

Eye contact training, right?

Teaching your dog that if there’s something that distracts him, whether it’s a person, a chicken, a cat, instead of going off of impulse, what do you do?

You look at me, right?

You teach them that.

That’s gonna go a long way.

That’s really gonna help you.

Instead of chasing this thing, come check in with me, right?

Easier for some dogs than others, right?

You have that extreme prey drive dog.

That’s gonna be harder.

Which I will say, one thing I’ve started to implement, which we do this for all dogs that come to us to train.

We’ll teach them a cue, whether that’s their name, to look at us.

Boom, we go into engagement stuff.

And remember, dogs will respond better to physical cues over the verbal, right?

And so I have started to implement with Rampage because this is the first time I’ve ever owned such a high drive dog as a physical cue, right?

Like a little poke on his shoulder.

That has helped us tremendously.

When he gets to the tennis ball scenario, you know, he gets too focused where the verbal is just at, like he’s just, he ain’t hearing it.

You know what I’m saying?

And that physical feedback helps get him into that back, back into that eye contact.

Boom, then I go into my engagement.

So that has helped, especially if you’ve got a high drive dog, that can be something you might try to incorporate.

Yeah.

And if your dog’s not close enough to give a little poke on the shoulder or tap on the butt, you got your e-collar.

Exactly.

Right?

So if your dog’s 20 feet away from you, you can be, uh-oh, they’re going into prey drive, right?

They’re looking at something a little bit too much.

They’re not checking in with me.

No.

Little nick, you know, momentary nick on the e-collar.

Boom.

That’s like a tap on the shoulder when you train it properly.

Right.

You got to train it properly.

Don’t just slap the e-collar on your dog.

You train it properly.

You tap that.

Boom.

They look at you.

Good.

Come on over here.

Yep.

That’s the best way to do that.

Yeah.

And that was big for me.

And Bane is because, you know, he used to react at people.

Yeah.

And so he would get uncomfortable with someone’s like, you know, you go out in a public place, people are staring at you, Hey, pretty boy.

He hated that.

So like when that would happen, I taught him over time, when this happens, just check in with me, just look at me.

Right.

And eventually you don’t even need those cues.

You don’t need the cues.

The person walks up, he’s bam, he’s looking at you.

Exactly.

But that’s a repetition thing.

For sure.

That’s a repetition thing.

So those are kind of some big things to think about.

But in any case, you know, you, there are a lot of situations where this is very easy for people to work on.

There’s a lot of situations where this is difficult, whether you’re running out of time, whether you just don’t know what to do in the situation.

Like we talked about generalities, but let’s say you have an outlying situation.

You just don’t know what to do, but you have the time available.

This is how we can help you, right?

Because we can provide guidance to you.

We can provide coaching to you, right?

So whether you let us know, hey, I need some help.

You want us to do a board and train or we train the dog, bring it to you, you maintain it.

Or if, like I said, you’re one of those people, I’ve got the time, I’ve got the ability to do this, but I need coaching.

This is what our virtual coaching sessions are set up for, so that we can help you get to the next level.

We can help you troubleshoot and resolve the problems that you’re working on.

So let us know.

Like I said, we’re more than happy to help.

If it’s a consultation, if it’s, hey, you need some serious training, if you need a coach, that’s what we’re here for, right?

So yeah, I think we talked a lot about some of our own experiences, right?

And training our dogs with our chickens, our cats, other animals that are around, right?

We know you’re working on your tennis ball, tennis court situation.

I got to get more into it.

We don’t find myself in that situation very often.

Well, the other thing too is people, even if you don’t have a cat, don’t have a chicken, don’t have a prey animal, people like taking their dog’s places, pickleball is big these days.

So if your dog can’t do a downstay while you’re playing pickleball, that might be something you want to work on, right?

So that’s something to think about.

Well, and it’s like I always look at it too.

Maybe it’s not something that you’re going to find yourself in, but anytime that I’m working my dog, sometimes I’m just walking.

I’m, hey, we’re going to go on a walk.

And all of a sudden, bam, tennis court.

It’s like I’ve now found a situation where my dog struggles.

So it’s like, yeah, what’s the likelihood of me really running into tennis courts?

Like very slim to none, right?

But this is an opportunity.

Look at it as an opportunity of like, this is something I can conquer with my dog.

It’s going to make him better.

So that now next time I’m going to run into something else that’s new, right?

And he has help.

He can drive cap a little bit better in that because we went through those sessions.

So it’s like, don’t look at it as like, well, I don’t need to do that because I don’t have chickens.

I don’t need to do that because I don’t have prey issues or whatever.

It’s like, if you run into the situation even once, that’s something to work on.

And that gives you something to tackle.

Yeah.

And the other thing too is if you have a dog with a lot of prey drive, it might not be chickens.

It might not be cats.

It could be children, like little kids, or kids toys.

Other dogs definitely.

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